Crete – A journey along the north coast

Anyone who is tied to school vacations knows it. Mid-April or the end of October can bring cool and unsettled weather to large parts of Europe. However, there is a good chance of warm sunny days on Crete at this time of year. It is also home to the southernmost city in Europe. Spring in Crete begins in mid-March and the rainy days decrease noticeably, while in the fall it is still wonderfully warm and you can still swim in the sea. That’s why Crete is one of our favorite destinations for the Easter and autumn vacations when we want to stay in Europe.

Chania, one of the most beautiful cities in Crete

Our journey starts in the northwest of the island. There you will find the second largest city in Crete, nicknamed the “Venice of the East” because of its Venetian harbor. The old town with its picturesque alleyways invites you to stroll through the numerous stores and to eat out in restaurants, cafés and taverns. We were delighted by the warm colors of the buildings, of which many are overgrown with flowers, and the charm of the old town. We would definitely recommend a visit in Chania.

As beautiful as the lively and sometimes very bustling town of Chania is, we always prefer to stay a little quieter. That’s why we opted for accommodation just outside town. However, we were able to reach the old town of Chania on foot. This is only for people who enjoy long walks though. If necessary, there is always a cab.

The hotel where we spent our time in the Chania region is veeeery beautiful.

Boho Style Hotel Domes Zeen

What particularly impressed me was the perfect combination of family hotel with Kids Club paired with the feeling that it could also be an Adults Only hotel.

Domes Zeen* is a village-style beach resort with a large pool, surrounded by a restaurant and bar. There you can enjoy a rich breakfast with many healthy options, as well as a cozy lunch or dinner with a sea view.

A wide range of activities is available for children in the kids’ club, including swimming lessons, arts and crafts, cooking, movie nights and even a little Greek language course. The club is stylish and beautifully furnished and the little ones are looked after by super-friendly staff. Meanwhile, the adults have the opportunity to work out in the gym pavilion, get pampered in the Jungle Spa or simply lounge by the pool or on the beach. Wonderful!

Even though we would have liked to stay in this amazing hotel near Chania for longer, we had planned other stops on our trip. Because we like to explore new places, we don’t usually stay in just one region or accommodation during a vacation. So after three nights, we packed our bags again and drove further east along the north coast.

Rethymno, another beautiful old town with a historic harbor in Crete

The town of 30,000 inhabitants is located around 45 km east of Chania and is also known for its Venetian harbor and lighthouse. Similar to what we experienced in Chania. Here, too, you can stroll through small romantic alleyways, feast and admire the mixed architecture from Venetian and Ottoman times. To the east of the town is the longest continuous sandy beach in Crete, which stretches over a total length of 12 kilometers.

There are numerous accommodations and restaurants for every budget along the beach. We picked a stylish hotel that was, of course, inspired by the beautiful Boho style .

Hotel Dyo Suites, Rethymno

The hotel is just a few steps away from the sandy beach and the old town is also within walking distance. The view of the azure blue sea from the room is fantastic. However, we particularly liked the whirlpool on our roof terrace. Even in mid-October, we were still able to enjoy a leisurely swim there in the evenings when it got cooler. With a sea view – what a dream. The hotel has a small pool, but it is more suitable for having a little dip to cool off than for swimming.

In the morning we were able to order a delicious à la carte breakfast. The pancakes in particular are highly recommended if you appreciate a sweet and rich breakfast.

One small drawback was that although the Dyo Suites* are located on the beach, there is still a two-lane road between the hotel and the beach. The traffic noise was limited, but it would have been nicer if the road had run behind the hotel. All in all, it was still a lovely place to stay. We felt very comfortable and would recommend a stay there without reservation.

Rethymnon leaves nothing to be desired in terms of cuisine. From Cretan tavernas and fish restaurants to international cuisine and fast food, everything is on offer here.

Dinner in Rethymno

As we love long walks and enjoy exploring the surrounding area on foot, we decided to take a long walk to the western side of the city. There are two great restaurants right next to each other.

First we went to Yialo’s Wine Restaurant, where we were spoiled with fresh fish, vegetables and pasta dishes. For wine lovers, there is a generous selection of Greek wines from the wine cellar.

For dessert and a nightcap, before the long walk back through the old town and along the beach promenade, we sat down next door at Cavo. There, too, you can enjoy a wonderful view of the sea and parts of the old town from the originally designed terrace.

After two nights in Rethymo, it was time to pack our bags again and continue east along the coast.

Malia old town, Crete

Our next destination was the old town of Malia, where we rented a charming AirBnb. I was very skeptical at first, because Malia also has a reputation for being a party town full of clubs and bars, where it is very loud and lively. However, as we arrived in Malia at the end of the season it was not a problem, day times were quiet and the bars were not near our accomodation. Fortunately, it also turned out that not the entire town is plastered with clubs. These are mainly located along the main road.

In the old town of Malia you will find many cute alleyways, small and large tavernas, pretty squares and small stores. Our absolute favorite restaurant in town is San Giorgio. Not only does it offer incredibly delicious food, it is also absolutely instagrammable. It is located on a small church square and looks like it popped out of a picture book.

The small but super cozy old town cottage, which we rented for 2 more nights, is centrally located. As Malia is very small, it is easy to get everywhere on foot and there is a large selection of nice restaurants within a few minutes’ walk.

If you are a light sleeper, I would recommend bringing earplugs for the nights in Malia. Even if you are staying there outside the party season, you can still hear the scooters and noises from the surrounding restaurants at night. And every now and then the odd group of noisy pedestrians might walk by. But if that doesn’t bother you, or if you’re a night owl yourself, I would highly recommend the AirBnb of our choice.

Who prefers to stay on the beach and further away from the hustle and bustle of Malia, can stay in one of the many beach hotels in the region. We have chosen the extremely family-friendly

boho-chic Cretan Malia Park

for the next couple of nights. If you don’t like children, you are certainly not inthe wrong place there. Nevertheless, this complex also offers plenty of charm and style, which is often lacking in other family hotels. There are some areas where you can find more peace and quiet. At no time did I get the feeling that this hotel would be too overwhelming with kids and noise for me. Our room faced the lagoon pool, which was very peaceful and empty as almost all the families were at the heated main pool.

In addition to the buffet breakfast in the main restaurant, you could have a quieter breakfast in a great atmosphere in the Mouris restaurant . You sit in a beautiful garden restaurant next to olive trees and can eat your way through many delicious specialties that are brought to your table one by one.

In addition to some other beautiful restaurants and a boho-style beach bar, Cretan Malia Park also has a kids’ club, a (partly) open-air gym, a spa and a beautiful stretch of beach. Even though we are rarely to be found in larger hotel complexes, we really enjoyed our stay and would definitely come back again.

Because our rental car station was not open at the time of our very early return flight, we decided to return the car the day before and spend the last night within cab range of the airport in Heraklion.

On the way from Malia to Heraklion you have the option a very nice stopover.

King Scorpio Beach Club Crete

The beach club is located to the west of Malia on a small bay with its own beach. Of course, we immediately felt at home, as the ambience was designed in our much-loved boho style. The small beach was perfect for splashing around and swimming, with gently sloping turquoise water and fine sand. You can have food and drinks served directly to the beach loungers and spend a carefree day by the sea.

Once in Heraklion, there is of course a large selection of sights, restaurants, hotels and stores – in fact the largest in Crete, as it is the capital of the island. However, without the rental car problem, we would not have decided to spend a night in the city. Even though Heraklion certainly has a few beautiful areas, attractions and history to offer, we are more drawn to the smaller towns. But if you’re in Heraklion, you can visit the

Restaurant The Garden, Heraklion

to either try some sushi, salads and other specialties or simply sip cocktails in a great atmosphere. The Garden is a great place to sit both indoors and outdoors and is an excellent place to relax at the end of the day. So – cheers – and see you on your next visit to Crete!

If you are interested in more travel tips for Crete’s south coast, just click here.